Malaysia is two lands in one. Across the South China Sea from the busy Peninsula lies the northern third of Borneo, the third-largest island on Earth, split into the Malaysian states of Sabah and Sarawak. This is the wild Malaysia — a world of rainforest older than the Amazon, granite peaks, tangled rivers and some of the richest wildlife on the planet. For many travellers it is the reason to fly halfway around the world.
Mount Kinabalu, the roof of Malaysia
Rising to 4,095 metres, Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain in Malaysia and the centrepiece of Kinabalu Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site recognised for its extraordinary biodiversity. The park shelters thousands of plant species, including carnivorous pitcher plants and rare orchids that grow nowhere else. Climbing the mountain is a two-day effort: trekkers spend the night at Laban Rata before a pre-dawn push across bare granite to catch sunrise from Low's Peak. Permits are limited and book out well in advance, so plan early.
Orangutans and the great apes
Borneo is one of only two places on Earth where orangutans survive in the wild. In Sabah, the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre near Sandakan cares for orphaned and rescued apes, returning them to the surrounding forest reserve. In Sarawak, the Semenggoh Nature Reserve outside Kuching offers the chance to see semi-wild orangutans arrive at feeding platforms. These are conservation projects first and attractions second, and both do vital work protecting a critically endangered species.
Rivers, rainforest and unusual creatures
The Kinabatangan River in eastern Sabah is Malaysia's answer to a safari. Boat cruises at dawn and dusk drift past riverbanks alive with wildlife:
- Proboscis monkeys, the big-nosed primates found only on Borneo
- Pygmy elephants, the smallest elephants in Asia
- Hornbills, crocodiles and, with great luck, wild orangutans
Deeper in the forest grows the rafflesia, the largest single flower in the world, which can reach a metre across and gives off a smell of rotting meat to attract pollinating flies. It blooms unpredictably, so seeing one is a matter of timing and luck.
Sipadan: diving among turtles and sharks
Off the eastern coast of Sabah, the tiny island of Sipadan rises from a 600-metre ocean drop-off and is regularly ranked among the finest dive sites on Earth. Divers swim through swirling schools of barracuda, hover beside green and hawksbill turtles, and watch reef sharks patrol the walls. To protect the reef, the number of daily diving permits is strictly capped, so most visitors base themselves on nearby Mabul or Kapalai and apply ahead of time.
Gunung Mulu and the world of caves
In Sarawak, Gunung Mulu National Park is a second UNESCO World Heritage Site, famous for one of the largest cave systems anywhere. The Deer Cave holds a passage vast enough to swallow cathedrals, and each evening millions of bats pour out in ribbons across the sky. Above ground, the razor-sharp limestone spires known as the Pinnacles reward a demanding multi-day trek with an unforgettable view.
Cities and cultures of Borneo
Kota Kinabalu, Sabah's laid-back capital, is the gateway to the mountain and to islands ringed with coral, and its waterfront markets serve some of the freshest seafood in the country. Kuching, the elegant capital of Sarawak, is known as the City of Cats and makes a charming base for exploring the state. At the Sarawak Cultural Village visitors walk through recreated longhouses of the Iban, Bidayuh and other Dayak peoples, whose communal riverside homes and living traditions remain central to Borneo's identity. Staying overnight in a genuine longhouse, welcomed by an Iban or Dayak host, is one of the most memorable experiences Malaysia can offer.
Sabah and Sarawak reward the traveller who slows down. Give Borneo a week or more, respect its forests and its peoples, and it will show you a Malaysia that feels wonderfully, gloriously wild.